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I used pl premium adhesive between my thermolite (similar to coosa). Great results. I torture tested it 2 weeks submerged. No loss of adhesion.
I used 2 sheets 3/4” for transom was more than sufficient. It’s rock solid. suppose you can do honeycomb, I didn’t have that available for bulkheads. I used thermolite, again great results. Raising stringers added more stability for my fuel tanks and deck kness and in general brought stuff together so do it where it makes sense without bing in your way. I did find them to be a tripping hazard and general pain. Almost same thing on mounting my fuel tanks. I put in thermolite supports and act as mini-bulkhead. No tabs for mounting. I’m using aluminum strapping from each bulkhead through-bolted. can’t speak to your tank placement though but I kept mine as from factory. My boat was modded with batts on aft side of bulkhead. I’m in process of relocating them under cabin sole with a hatch over them for venting purposes. 24x 14 or 30x14 depending on availability and shipping. Have a tray with drain holes and batt boxes for my batts. 2 house batts, 1 starting batt. Be careful on #7. My cuddy was surprisingly difficult to work on and get it to look ok. Doublecheck your seats. I don’t have any on mine for reference. But they are a little low from standard furniture but pads could offset that difference. Short chairs make for fatigue and cramped knees and legs. http://www.parotas.com/en/standard-t...heights-guide/ I echo what others said about screw holding ability. My best was done with torx head outdoor deck screws. Those were my best performers but many other screws were just worthless. |
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