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#101
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I use the dewalt variable speed. U can see it on the floor in one of the pics above. Has an 8" pad on it now. I use 80g and 50g for alot of sanding w it. Takes some getting use to. It will take everything off before u can let go of trigger. It will also snap back and bite u too when the trigger is locked on. Pic below is 80g. Was sanding floor on my MA, sander caught an edge and was coming straight for the "jewels". Course I was on my knees, so instinct, I shut my legs together and caught sander between knees....close call for sure. Pic is a couple days afterwards. Mainly just melted all my skin w paint and all mixed n. Doc had to numb it up good to clean it out.
Epoxy products were used all on the bottom and hull outside. Transom and under back deck is all epoxy and all top sides and floor and gunnels are vinyl. |
#102
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That is some pretty accurate sanding with a full size grinder on those scupper drains. I have always used a flap wheel on the grinder and sanded with the DA. I may have to try a sanding pad on the grinder.
Every time I have used poly or vinyl on large wet outs I have trouble with my working times and pot life so I have been sticking with epoxy on everything. I love epoxy but man does it get expensive. How do you approach large wet outs? Are you using waxed or un-waxed vinyl? |
#103
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Oh no scuppers were cut out w drill attachment. Like a boring type bit thats rounded on the end. Big grinder for big area....DA for final sand and corners and fine tuning.
Its chilly here n NC so mixing the resin even on a hotter side of catalyst it still has a good working time. Now the floor was kicking off as i was using the roller getting last minute air bubbles out. I guess the thing is to have all prepping done and get the resin out the bucket and spread quickly. Trust me my first 23' I wasted alot of resin and cabosil. Not perfect now but have only seem to waste about 48oz of vinyl resin on this so far and that was because I kicked it over... |
#104
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And the corners around the scuppers and around the whole floor were formed w cabosil then glassed right over while cabosil was still wet. Just alittle sanding, some glazing putty here and there and the corners will be a nice transition from the floor to the side
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#105
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Ah, that makes sense about the scupper holes. I was wondering how in the world you did that with a full size grinder, I was thinking a die grinder would work way better.
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#106
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This thing right here.... multi purpose tool
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#107
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I like the scupper layout but I had problems with mine done the exact same way. I have issues with the different layers delaminating/cracking where the grinding was done to form a smooth flow. It looked fantastic after applying the gelcoat but not for very long. I have found that pvc pipe works great for glassing to but ends need to be wrapped all the way to the inside with glass for it to not crack or seperate. Maybe temperature has something to do with it or the poly I used just didn't bond very well.
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[b]The Moose is Loose ! |
#108
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I know what u mean. Hoping that glassing over the ends of the pipe will help. Worst case is if it starts to then grind alittle out and fill w epoxy. I may even paint a coat of epoxy around the opening before I paint. Hopefully I wont see any problems. Course the boat is gonna settle some after it is rode some so im sure there will be a spider crack or two somewhere. Shoot I havent seen a boat that dosent have spider cracks.
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#109
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Quote:
I used 1" ID (1.25"OD) pre-fab fiberglass tubing from mcmaster-carr for the scuppers on my 18SF. Cut chunks to size and then glassed them right in, also did the fish box drain. Makes the job real easy and then you don't ever have to think about them again. Ever. Not a big fan of the traditional brass tubes or glassing in PVC pipe for all the reasons already mentioned (cracking etc). A 5ft stick is only $18. http://www.mcmaster.com/#8535k26
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Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#110
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Dang thats cheap. May check into that in the future
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