150HP Johnson

[adamcannon]

Well I just picked up this outboard to put on my 18SF with bracket. Its a 2004 Johnson 150 w/25" shaft and stainless prop. It has around 125 hours. I checked everything I could before buying it(compression, ignition, ect.) but I couldnt run it before. I got it home and got the water, gas, and oil hooked up. Thank goodness if fired up after not being ran in a year and a half. Everything seems good. Do you think I should take it to the local evinrude guy and have all the systems checked out (carbs., water pump, fuel pump, ect.) to make sure everything is good. Or since it runs and pumps water just do the mormal maintanence my self like change the lower unit oil and the impeller and let it go. I dont want to tear anything up since it had been sitting for so long, plus I know very little about the engine. I know there are probably several outboard savvy people on here that will steer me in the right direction. I am hoping this motor will be a good match for my 18SF I am restoring. From what I have read on here, just so I dont go over 400lbs or so I will be fine. This motors dry weight is 391lbs. If nothing else I should have more than enough power. I originally was going to go with a 115hp but I was scared it might be slightly under powered.

[vcs]

I have a Evinrude 175 on my 18 with bracket no problems

[htillman]

I would fog the motor until you get it installed on your boat. Then once you have it installed and rigged. Take it to your outboard mechanic for a checkup, test run and adjust as necessary. I just did the same to two Johnsons I switched on two 23 Seacrafts. He did find a couple of problems with each motor, average cost for his work was $300.00 - I think worth it.

[gofastsandman]

Carb job, LU oil {check for clouds}, impeller,pull the prop for mono fouling on the seals. Pop it in R b4 dropping the LU. Spin the prop clockwise while doing this. Grease the main shaft, change out the grommets and grease them well.
Check shift shaft clearance.

Confirm #1 piston TDC and timing marker. Check idle rpm w/ meter. Check idle timing and lync n sync. Butterflys all smiling. What are your comp #`s? Let the seals seep for a while before you fire it up again. Time is a friend here.
Cheers,
GFS

[Fr. Frank]

Ditto to what Sandy said. Add to that having it hooked up to the computer and the engine running history read and printed. I may be wrong here, but I think the '04 BRP motors were the 1st year capable of storing info on hours run, and rpm ranges while running, error codes, etcetera.

[adamcannon]

I will check into getting it hooked up to a computer, not sure if this motor has that capability but that would be good. I did check the lower unit and the oil looks like it is brand new(not milky) and there are no metal shavings of any kind that I can see. I have heard of fogging the pistons but Im not sure how to do it. I have a ways to go on my rebuild and it would be easier to wait and mount the motor to the boat before I take it any where. I guess the motor has been sitting for 1 1/2 years already a few more months wont hurt. I feel like I got a good deal($3750). I hope nothing to bad is wrong with the motor. When I ran the motor the other day I noticed there was water coming out of these slots between the lower unit and the mid section of the motor. Im not sure if the water is suppose to come out of there but the slots are there from the factory. You can see the slots in the picture, they are where the lower unit bolts go into the mid section of the motor. It worried me for a second but it was pumping and I could tell the thermostats appeared to be working. Thanks for all the input. I would say I know just enough about outboards to get me in trouble. Any thing else that anyone thinks I need to do just let me know. Thanks again.

[gofastsandman]

computer.

[76Red18]

Water should come from there.

[adamcannon]

Thats a relief. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks

[Bushwacker]

Looks like you've got a good deal there. A fellow engineer/friend of mine at Pratt & Whitney later became the chief engineer of the OMC/BRP test center in Stuart, Fl. He told me that BRP really cleaned up the operation once they took over, and that all the motors built by BRP were very good!

One thing that hasn't been mentioned, and maybe you've already done this, is Stabil or equivalent in the fuel. Modern fuels will start to break down and lose octane after about 30 days if you don't put some sort of preservative in them. If it's going to sit for some time, I'd either run the carbs dry or make sure you have some preservative in the gas, especially if it's got ethanol in it!