Patching holes in transom

[Surfnski]

I'm thinking about removing my swim platform so that I can add trim tabs, I'm pretty sure my platform brackets are going to be in the way of the actuators. This boat is pretty stern heavy with twin I/O's and this big swim platform isn't helping any with getting the butt out of the water. So my question is: what is the best filler/material to use to patch the bolt holes once I remove these heavy stainless brackets? I want to use something that will be easily paintable once I get the transom repainted.

[FAS]

I like your boat,try to keep the platform ,it works,.. notch it to accept a set of electric tabs ,like the lenco stuff..wanna see some more picts of your ride..

[FLexpat]

I agree w FAS - I like your boat. Trim tabs won't reach up to your platform so you wouldn't have to notch it - I think they would go about to your bootstripe (the tops of my tabs are well below the well drains). I would definitely replace the center SS brace with a fiberglass one. One thing you might want to consider is making a foam filled 'hull extension' on each side that supports the platform, lifts the stern and houses the tabs - something like this.

[Old'sCool]

Bennett offers a shorty actuator. Keep the platform

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Surfnski

. . . So my question is: what is the best filler/material to use to patch the bolt holes once I remove these heavy stainless brackets? I want to use something that will be easily paintable once I get the transom repainted. . .

I'd drill all the holes oversize, fill 'em with 6-10 epoxy and then redrill. It's easy to apply with a caulk gun, doesn't run when squirted into a horizontal hole, and is strong stuff when cured.

I would consider an alternate and lighter mount scheme however. Your platform is really too high to be useful for swimming without a ladder on it. If it's mounted at the waterline, you really don't need a ladder, and if you mount it on hinges, it can fold up so it's out of the way or easily removable for fishing. I'd make cutouts for the outdrives and drop it down to the waterline mounted on hinges used for bimini tops or engine boxes and support it with ropes from the transom towing eye's. The one on the "Unohu" shown below, which was a very serious dive boat, was supported with chains with bicycle inner tubes used for shock absorbers. Last picture shows a similar but very light "half-assed" platform I made for my boat using stainless tubing and teak planks that worked very well and could be removed in about 2 minutes! The owner of the Unohu later made a similar full platform with square stainless tubing and teak planks that was much lighter than his original 3/4" plywood platform.

However I'd only consider Bennett hydraulic tabs for salt water use. Mine have worked fine for 40 years, except for having to change out the electric control switch a couple of times. The whole concept of depending on a couple of O-rings to keep saltwater away from electric motors makes me nervous!

[Surfnski]

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I would like to keep the platform if I can make it work with tabs but either way I do want to pull it off and check the core of the transom for water intrusion. I'll make a decision at that point which way to go with the tabs and platform configuration. I do like the idea of overdrilling the mounting holes and filling and then redrilling.