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  #11  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:32 AM
shine shine is offline
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The old Mako 19s were fine rugged boats. And very stable fishing rigs. Those were about 12 degrees at the transom. They also had a an 8ft beam. For these reasons they floated high and the transom was not as easily overcome by water from from behind. A 20" shaft did not ride as low as with a deeper v because of less dead rise and more beam. They were also filled with foam and that often led to fuel tank failure and early rot if holes were not properly sealed.
had one of them when I was in high school. Fuel tank leaked terribly. She almost sank at the dock a couple times when the wind would kick up and waves would bounce off dock and splash water over the cut out. It was not a safe boat from what I know now.


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My confidence in the whaler is only in the fact that it has a ton of flotation.
I have the same confidence in my surfboard and igloo cooler - they are build same/better than most whalers

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Regardless, they both ride like crap when compared to the narrow beam and variable dead rise presented in the SeaCraft 20s
that is the gospel truth


As for a composite poured transom, its make some sense if you are talking about a new construction with freshly laminated inside/outside skins. Even then, a core material that is basically just polyester putty would not my first choice.
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2012, 01:51 PM
Albert Jr. Albert Jr. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGillicuddy View Post
The old Mako 19s were fine rugged boats.also had a an 8ft beam.
My confidence in the whaler is only in the fact that it has a ton of flotation.

Regardless, they both ride like crap when compared to the narrow beam and variable dead rise presented in the SeaCraft 20s.
Ok thanks for the info man. I am working on desinging my own 19 footer.
It has an 8 ft beam and I wanted to give it a 20'' transom.
It is also a veriable deadrise hull like the seacraft but the second row of chines (don't have another name for it) are a lil trimmed and it has a whole tumblehome. (180 degrees oval shape above waterline at the rear end of the boat). My plans is to fill it with foam instead of using stringers.

I have never found that older whaler nor makos ride like crap. The newer bw' ride alot better though but they are also aloot more heavier plus I think that they have less style than the older whalers.
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  #13  
Old 10-05-2012, 03:29 PM
65Bowrider 65Bowrider is offline
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Location: Florida Keys
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Ok, I'm going to stick my head out on this one, because I think Seacast is pretty good stuff!
Skip and I just replaced our bowrider's 47 year old original wood transom with Seacast. As with anything, if you don't follow proper procedures, you can get yourself in trouble. But the phone support with the Seacast people was terrific and we are very pleased with the results. And Skip did put our-created sample to some brutal tests with vice-scripts and come-alongs trying to pull it apart ... Then the sledge hammer ... It passed all his tests.
So, if your replacing your transom and don't want to cut the inner or outter skins, pourable Seacast is an option to consider. Just my opinion.
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SeaCraft:1966 19' Bowrider & 1962 21' Raceboat
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  #14  
Old 10-05-2012, 08:05 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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You need to write much much more.

Ground up old hulls with an epoxy matrix?

SeaCraft Cast?

Sometimes I wonder...
GFS
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