That old topic...I am replacing my Tank

[Hooper]

1gal of partA and one gal of partB will give you 4cuft. That is if you don't do it in cold weather. In cold weather it will not expand correctly. In warm weather you need everything set up where your going to do your pouring. You pour part A in with part B in small measured quanities and stir for about 45sec. You better be pouring it then. Ideally you will have "L" brackets welded to the side of the tank to lag bolt it to the stringers too.

Thanks Warthog, just so I am clear, you're talking about the foaming process right, not coal taring right?....

[Hooper]

I really appreciate all the advise you guys are able to provide me.....

Scott - On those tank tabs, are you saying that the deck then bolts down into the tabs on the top of the tank rather than the tank bolting down into the stringers, right?

Finster - You wrote to be sure to repair the old holes in the stringers... Can I fill those with a West System epoxy and bolt into that? Or should I pick a new spot just off of the old one?

Dink - I may just have to take you up on your offer to jave a look at you setup! $850 for 136 gallons doesn't sound too bad, I was going to contact a place in Norwood that I heard of, have them give me an idea on price.....

[codfeesh]

hey hoop i had mine built at capeway welding in plymouth. there at 9 apollo 11 road phone #5087476666..hes a good guy .i now a couple other people who have used him as well with good results.my tank was 120 gallons cost was 880.

[warthog5]

QUOTE: Thanks Warthog, just so I am clear, you're talking about the foaming process right, not coal taring right?....

Yes were talking about the 2part foam. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Finster]

Hoop,

You can do either. Just whip up a cavisal mix and your good to go.

[cc]

Have built many tanks, use aluminum alloy 5052-H32, at least .090" thick. I had been alodine coating the tanks and then painting, but recently have been taking to a company that does truck bed liners and coating with bedliner material. Just my two cents worth.

[Ed]

Hoop-

Give Kentfab Engineering in Norwell a call. They make a lot of aluminum tanks and they are CG certified. There is also someplace in Rhode Island called Bruno's or something like that.

Ed

[strick]

The pic that scott showed is the way my 75 23cc was set up. No bulkheads on the front or rear of the tank. There were 4 90 degree angle legs that were screwed into the sides of the stringers. There were some wood shims between the legs and stringers. Most of these were rotted and barely holding the tank however to my suprise the tank was secure. I like Pascoes method of securing the tank with runners under it to allow for air circulation

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/Gas%20Tank%20Support/

however after I glassed these runners in place I found that the tank was 3/4 inch too high and I could not get my deck hatch back over it. I then proceeded to remove the glassed in runners and my solution to secure the tank was to 5200 it to the deck. It is solid and not going to move. It may be a pain to get out later but then again it's a pain to remove a foamed tank and I did not want to put screw holed into the sacred seacraft stringers [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Strick

[Hooper]

Guys-

Thanks to you all. I guess the only thing to do next is begin the process. Have to say, I feel a bit like I am fishing a new stretch of water as I have not much of an idea what I am going to find! But I'll get started after the 1st of the year and hope for the best.

I am sure I will learn much along the way!!!! [img]/images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]

Thanks, Gordon

[ned2nav]

One option that you can do, not sure if it was mentioned earlier, is have the new tank made about 1/4" shorter in heihgt. Grab an old 1" garden hose, slice it into two peices long ways. Use the garden hose close to the front, back and middle of the tank to lower it, leaving the garden hose under the tank. this should give you about 1/16" to 1/8" of gap under the tank. Weigh the tank down. When i did it it took about three of us standing on the edge of the tank. Pour the foam mix. CAUTION: as the foam begins to expand it will start to fill the 1/16" to 1/8" gap under the tank and tend to push it up, hence why you need to weigh it down. Normally the first couple of pours will do this but once the bottom foam had formed, the foam will work its way up, and not the tank. If done correctly, not allowing the tank to come up, you should end up with foam cushioning the bottom of the tank, which will help prevent cracking or breaking. Cut any excesss foam, and the excess hoses.

Cheers