|
|
|
|
#1
09-12-2017, 11:11 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Transom replacement on I/O
Hello again
Can someone tell me your thoughts please. I'm curious more so than anything. My transom was replaced with Bluewater Coosa board in 2013 by Embree Marine in St Petersburg FL by previous owner. It's a single I/O. They billed for 32 hours of transom work. So with an I\O rebuild do most people take it all the way out to the port and starboard sides or just do a 4x4 or so foot section around the rotten outdrive (in the notes that was described as the area that was rotten)? . I notice on the storage box drain tube has some wetness so I'm assuming that they Didn't take it all the way out since its not load bearing over there with a bracket or a twin outboard setup. What do most people do when replacing an I/O boat? Thanks so much for your feedback. Cheers 
|
|
#3
09-13-2017, 07:53 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks Flexpat
Since posting this I noticed that the starboard side is completely dry after I removed some fixtures there. Port side is toast just around drain box down. The water came in through a faulty drain plug in the storage box no doubt. It's old as probably been this way for a LONG time. I do have trim tabs as well. Since they redid everything almost up to this area with Bluewater 26 Coosa is it even worth messing with since it's a single outdrive? Thanks QUOTE=FLexpat;253943]I replaced mine full width - there was a good bit of rot around the trim tab mounts and around the mounts for the dive platform, but around the box drains wasn't as bad.[/QUOTE]
|
|
#4
09-13-2017, 10:54 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
What's the going rate for a sheet of bluewater coosa?
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg
|
|
#6
09-13-2017, 02:57 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks!
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg
|
|
#7
09-13-2017, 06:00 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Mine was and I/o and when they cut the box vents on port and starbord..water got inand I had many many termites holding hands.. The sides we're never addressed.. since it was done at factory76'...but the I/o hole was repaired.. bfore the new outdrive when in.. needles to say the whole transom rotted out. So I replaced with all new plywood and foam...
|
|
#8
09-13-2017, 07:10 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ouch. So how far out did they replace around your Hole for outdrive? Best I can tell on mine by the discrete lines on outside of hull they went out about four feet but not all the way to the vents. I'm glad at least now that they used coosa board!! To help fend off the demons.
Quote:
|
|
#9
09-15-2017, 04:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
On both 23's I have those rear box drains were the reason the transom rotted. After replacing the transom I epoxied in fiberglass tubes so there's no chance of it happening again. If you're going to cut into the transom you might as well do it the right way and replace the whole transom.
|
|
#10
09-15-2017, 11:23 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Should I go on and do it now? (No sign of fatigue) it's an I/O with new coosa at the drive extending out several feet. Should I keep running it and keep an eye on it or put it to bed this winter and redo it all?
QUOTE=CoreyTrx;254000]On both 23's I have those rear box drains were the reason the transom rotted. After replacing the transom I epoxied in fiberglass tubes so there's no chance of it happening again. If you're going to cut into the transom you might as well do it the right way and replace the whole transom.[/QUOTE]
|
 |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
