Forward bulkhead

[chriselk]

Hey guys, I have a 23 from a former member.

I have forgotten his name, but he was the guy who supposedly made T shirts for yall.

I have attached a picture of the boat AFTER he had work done on it. That may help you recall it.

PLEASE NOTE THE PICTURES ARE OUT OF ORDER. The blue boat is the picture of the boat about 10 yrs ago.

Well, it has an enclosed transom with a bracket after the partial rebuild. I have cut out the deck and the front of the transom to expose the inside view there.

It appears that a large central knee was installed running from hull to top of transom. There is some original fiberglass remaining on port and starboard sides of the transom that was cut to access bolts when installing the bracket.

The top of the transom, about 18 inches is THREE inch thick and solid (newer). Below, it is rotted out-probably original.
I am still debating on whether to go back in with a new single bracket or renotch the transom. It seems that I will not be able to salvage the good part of the transom and will have to cut that part out and start over-that is if I decide to rebracket it. Certainly, being that its not rotted it will not peel from the outer skin like the lower rotten part. The outside of the transom where I redrilled the drains is pretty thick glass, so I dont want to do an outside transom repair and I dont want to work upside down.

My question is can anyone tell me what this boat was powered with originally (I/O or outboard)? See pictures.

[chriselk]

FYI,
The deck had been removed before and put back in. The tops of the stringers had been cut and a very small amount of foam removed, is what I based this on. Also a VERY small amount of adhesive was applied-smaller than a tube of tooth paste line.

When it was glued back down it must have never touched the stringers as the green glue was still round. The deck was not attached except for a couple of places in the corners. It would have come out in one piece, but we cut it in two to make it easy to remove. It was waterlogged.

The previous repair had just put plywood over the rear of the deck. It was rotted too. I have for sale a slightly used 23 Seacraft deck, if anyone want one-I will make you a good deal. Interestingly, the central removable panels were in pretty good shape. Probably need recoring-they may have water or they are just friggin heavy glass.

The previous repair seems to have put expanding foam all over between the stringers and everywhere-it was newer form. It trapped water. Every time we cut, water came out. In fact the bracket was installed over the transom drains-there was not place to get water out of the hull, we had to vacuum it out.

Removing all this stuff was cathartic (sp?).

[thehermit]

usermane "peterb"


Search his posts or PM. I think he still visits.

[Capt Chuck]

It trapped water. Every time we cut, water came out. In fact the bracket was installed over the transom drains-there was not place to get water out of the hull, we had to vacuum it out.

It was waterlogged

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=17283

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by chriselk

Hey guys,
My question is can anyone tell me what this boat was powered with originally (I/O or outboard)? See pictures.

I/O, You can tell, because the stringers in the rear cut inward to allow more room for the motor and motor beds. The outboard models have wider stringers at the rear.


The lower part of the transom that is rotted may have transferred moisture up into the newer 3" section that was redone. Ply wood wicks water from the end grains the most so it could of sucked the water up into that part as well. I would se how well they separated the new core from the old. If it was just butted together them you might have to change it all and the new stuff will be hard to get off. If they glassed in between them it might of saved the new wood and kept the water out. Three inches is over kill and is adding extra weight to the hull too. If you go back with two 3/4" ply's you might can shave some weight off of the rear of the boat. It would be hard to do a transom and leave part and re-do just some, better to just change out the whole thing. On one of SC hulls it has a solid transom that is not old at all with zero rot but has a deep notch for a short leg motor and I want to fill the notch to make it a full transom. I feel like I could just fill it in and it would be find but I probably will remove all of it just so I know it has been done right and the way I want it. It is hard replacing something that is not bad but it just depends on how far you want to go with a restore (get it back going and fix just what needs it or a full redo to "Like new condition") Far as strength wise if the top new part is not compromised by the wet lower core then you will be fine just changing the bad lower part. Just depends on how anal you are how far you want to take it. I tend to be a bit to anal at times and take things to far.

[chriselk]

Thanks Mike,
I cut the transom almost completely out, at least the forward bulkhead. I am in the process of cutting the notched "new area" out. I will be trying to remove the lower rotted area and then redoing the transom in one piece and not trying to save anything. I do worry a little about the boat "racking" with only the transom skin to hold things. I know people do this all the time.

I also got the stringer tops cut out, and removed all foam.

Here is the bracket if someone is in the market for one. I dont know who made it-anyone know?

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by chriselk

I do worry a little about the boat "racking" with only the transom skin to hold things. I know people do this all the time.

I also got the stringer tops cut out, and removed all foam.

Here is the bracket if someone is in the market for one. I dont know who made it-anyone know?

I wouldn't worry to much about the boat racking with the transom out as long as the stringer sides are still in place but one thing that you do need to look out for is keeping the skin flat. If you don't support the back side of it, it will crown out of bow outward. If you bond the new skin in to it and don't run a straight edge down the back or a something to square it up it will end up having gaps on the outer edges of the bracket. This will also make the rear part of the cap not fit back on as well as it should either. Just make sure when you bond the core back in you run some straight wood beams or metal straight edges along the back.

Let me know what you might want for the bracket (PM or email me) I may can use it on one of my 2 23's in the future if I ever get around to working on them.

[chriselk]

Oops, first picture added was wrong one. I hate you cannot cut and paste stuff.
The N koreans can hack Sony but we have to do so many operations on these sites just to paste a picture.

This picture is of the stern after cutting out the front bulkhead and showing the configuration of the stern.

I am now in the process of cutting the notch out.

[chriselk]

Got it. Thanks, I emailed you.

[caboman22]

Nice boat...I used to work with one of the previous owners in south NJ who owned it.. I looked at it 14 years ago but didn't want to get into a floor etc... Now I'm in the middle of a complete restoration.. Good luck and enjoy!!