rewire guidance

[ignasty]

I'm thinking about rebuilding my 1996 mercruiser 350 mag. thats in my 1977 23'cc seacraft but was thinking of rewiring the whole boat while the motor is out. Does anyone have any guidance to some manuals or books that will get me started in the right direction? I just figure while it's out do it right.

[Briguy]

I have been dreading a similar project for about 5 years now!!!!!!! Everything under my console is shoved into 7 fuses!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ARRRRGGGGGGG.

[BigLew]

Assemble the components you will be using; engine, D/F finder, radio(s), GPS, tabs, etc. Anything that will have controls, instuments, power requirements. Most, if not all, will have wiring diagrams or schmematics and these will show the connections that will need to be made. Figure out where the various items will be located and what the lengths of the runs will be and add 15% min. to the lengths to the switches, instrument panels, power take offs, etc. Check out the link I will include because, aside from the soldering, shrink wrapping and terminal techniques discussed, it will also give you a chart of the industry (marine/AYBA color coding for wiring-very important and helpful. Make a copy of it and keep it on board!!! Helps with trouble shooting later.)

Get yourself a copy of Nigel Calder's "Boat Owner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" and read it in sections. It will get a lot deeper than you will want to , but all the information is there and then some. It isn't cheap, (ask for it as B'day present, early Christmas present, be a "good" husband surprise gift, etc.) just get it!! It will save you much more than the price over time and will be a great resource for you and your friends.

Between the manuals and Nigel's book you should be good to go. One thought I have used is to run a heavy hot lead and ground to the helm/instrument panel and put each on a its own distribution post. From ther it save a lot of mutiple long runs. You will also likey want to keep ALL leads to units with any motors separate from your electronics (ignition noise).

Good luck and be well. Don't be cheap about it. Marine grade wire is more expensive, but it is tinned its entire length and as a result will last FAR longer in the marine/wet envirement other wire (Radio Shack, etc.) was not made for. Think of all the times you will be way out in 5'+ seas trying to get back in without a wire failure to deal with!!! Can you say Cheap insurance.

Oh yeah, get yourself a decent VOM meter. It is a life saver when you need to trouble shoot a problem. I got a second inexpensive one about the size of a cell phone that I keep in my water tight/desicant included tool box wrapped in foam rubber with an elastic around it. It has saved my butt a couple of times- Alt/voltage regulator or trim tab pump issues or old non-tinned wire from before I learned my lesson and didn't get to change yet!!

Take care and good luck.

http://www.screamandfly.com/home/hul...4/wiring_1.htm

[BigLew]

One additional comment. When I referenced devices with motors, that includes a radome/array. They have electric motors to rotate the array!!! Two, maybe three power leads to the radar: display unit, transmitting signal generator and/or motor power lead. Some signal transmit signals get their power from the base/display unit. Check each connection as you do it with the VOM meter. Resistance, (OHM's) are a bad thing. High readings indicate poor connections.- Good luck.

Leave enough slack in each line so you can do a neat and quality job terminating EACH end!!!!

[McGillicuddy]

Ditto on the Calder book ,and Ed Shermans book, Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems; Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Improvements is also a good read, although abbreviated in comparison. I've found both in my public library system. Calder is about $33 and Sherman $25 on amazon.com.

Genuinedealz.com is a great source for top grade tinned cable, wire and terminals as well as fusing. It's not nearly as expensive as West Marine might lead you to think. Also check out bluesea.com Their products are super, their online content is more informative than most books, and their customer service is second to none. They'll walk you through connections if your having trouble.

Good luck. I found it very gratifying to re-do my wiring myself. Saved a boatload of money too.

[BigLew]

Another thing I forgot.

I ran into this 10-15 years ago. It really is a great idea.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beFR7R0D83TCgl

A "brush-on" insulating sealant. Brush some on after you are finished making your connections to the terminals! Also, don't forget to make drip loops on each of the wires so moisture doesn't run onto the terminals themselves.

[ignasty]

Thanks for all the info.I went out to borders and got the calder book 50 bucks but seems to be well worth it. the wiring I have now is nothing but a cluster !!!! one big mess. Previous owner has 7 different wires connected to the battery terminal just makes me nervous thats why I need to do it the right way. thanks alot for the info I'll let you know how I MAKE OUT.

[BigLew]

Those seven wire runs is what I was talking about when I spoke of the post with distribution capability. A good bus bar is essentially what it is. Except if it is absolutely neccessary, stay away from spade/sleeve type connectors and such tree connectors, use ring connectors or fork connectors. Also, get the right sizes terminals for the gauge wire you are using. Going a gauge larger in your wire is not a bad idea either. Age/moisture deteriorates a wire's conductivity and that means heat-BAD!!! Tie evrything back NEATLY and anchor it well. Wires that rub against the "unfinished/ungelcoated" side doesn't take much abrasion to wear through.

Take it slow and think it through before you start cutting wire! Also break down the project into it's compnents- engine and tabs/tilt, instruments, pumps and blowers, electronics and radios and antennas.

A word about antenna leads. Some you can shorten/lengthen, some not! Generally speaking, get the shortest you can that will reach WHEN TIED BACK and PROPERLY ANCHORED!! Coil the balance, wire tie both sides of the coil and securely anchor it. After you get the boat out in some nastier conditions check to see that every thing is in its place and is not flopping aroud. If you can check those things while underway in those conditions-even better.

Calder's book is available discounted, priced at mid to higher 30's dollar typically, but even at $50., it will prove to be well worth it. His explanation of batteries and the different types for what use will save the average boater the cost of a new set of batteries over the course of 3-4 sets of batteries. At about 125-200 per pair, if you get 3 sets of batteries giving you the service of what would normally be 4 sets for the unknowing boater,you've made back your investment in the book and some more as well. It is a dry read at times though. Because you own it- make notes in the margin or summary outlines and leave/discreetly tape them in the pertinent section of the book. It will save you a lot of time later when you need to go back and check something or find out additional details.

If you don't have it already, Chapman's book and piloting and seamanship is equally valuable.

Congrats, be well and take it slow and steady with the work. We want to see the results and the pride in your efforts.

[ROBCAR]

I know that feeling. I just finishing re-doing my 20 MA and one of the last things left to do is the re-wiring, which in my opinion is a must. The whole thing looked like a bird's nest, not to mention the fact that the wires were old and dried out. In addition to the re-wiring, I will attempt to install a new 150 engine with the help of my friend's dad, who used to race and work on all his boats (I've seen his impressive work), and the occasional service of one of the local shops.

Send me a PM and I will you my number in case you want to bounce off some questions and/or share the experience of the process.

Rob

[BigLew]

I had been thinking about this thread and thought I'd try and find a couple of pictures and seemingly knowledgable guidance that is available on line. This is what I found last night on wiring:

http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/ElectricalSystems_DC.htm

Let me also say, this is the same website that I got the rather thorough discussion of fuel tanks: materials and installation proceedures that I have passed onto the forum a number of times. It may not be the final word in all cases, but the author appears to provide enough basic information and suggestions to get us started in the right direction on many topics. I suggest bookmarking the site in general and some of those sections you find particularly helpful.

Enjoy and make it a great day!

http://marinesurvey.com/index.html