through hull drain tubes in the floor

[avian22]

the tapered lip of the brass drain tube that comes out on the bottom of the boat has eroded and no longer exsists. I have not been able to find out how the heck to replace that tube myself. Haven't even been able to locate a drain tube that long. Plus. . . been told that even if I can find the tube, I would need a special tool to make the lip once I fit the tube through the hull.

Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. I am currently using a "t" drain plug from the bottom (up) to stop water from entering the bilge. However, the water pressure at that drain plug when I'm running will probably start openning up that hole if I wait too long.

OH! And. .. Does anyone know "WHY" SEACRAFT glassed electical wires for the navigation lights into the cap?!?! Just curious! Seems very impractical!

thanks

[Greno]

i plug mine from the inside thriugh the remnants of the bait well

[avian22]

Well my problem is with the self bailing drain tubes in the floor. Unfortunately I can't just plug them from inside the boat because the lip that has fallen off is the side that comes out the bottom of the boat.

[Greno]

i dont have floor drains. previous owner removed them. the only thru hull below water is the baitwell drain. my fishbox drain has been glassed as well. i think you can get a flaring tool at west marine. good luck.

[Bushwacker]

. . .Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. OH! And. .. Does anyone know "WHY" SEACRAFT glassed electical wires for the navigation lights into the cap?!?! Just curious! Seems very impractical!
thanks

Use the search tool! Have been many posts on this subject, including one I did a couple of years ago. Enter something like Scupper Tube Repair.

As for the nav light wiring, I'd say that's a pretty simple way to protect the wiring; makes sense to install it after they lay up the cap while still in the mold. Also better and cheaper than stringing loose wire with tie wraps every foot or so. Those are wires you shouldn't have to fool with anyway, unless the boat sinks, in which case that's the least of your worries!

[avian22]

Bush, the problem is that the wires are over 30 yrs old and the insulation is hard and britol. Are these wires meant ti last exposed like that for 30 + years. They've been working fine until now, and I haven't really messed with them at all.

It's just that I peeked under there and when I saw and felt the wires I was wondering if I should attempt to change them to prevent the possibility of my nav lights not working all of the sudden while I'm out at night.

I'm still learning about this stuff so thanks for all of your input man. It is priceless to me.

[Bushwacker]

Are these wires meant ti last exposed like that for 30 + years. They've been working fine until now, and I haven't really messed with them at all.

I recently replaced my combo light on bow with separate red and green lights on cabin sides to make way for an anchor bracket. Nav lights don't pull many amps, so the original 1972 wires were fine and I just spliced the new lights to them. If you've been putting a lot of amps thru a wire it'll get hot and oxidize; then the insulation WILL get brittle and when you scrape it off the outside of the copper wires will be black; if they've been submerged in sea water, you'll see green copper sulfate. Any black or green wires should be replaced. I've seen than on trailer lights and bilge pump wiring, but not on nav lights.

Here's one link to some photos of the scupper repair I did.
leaking scupper repair I stayed with the original brass tubes to get max flow area. You can use schedule 40 PVC but you'll lose a lot of flow area due to the thick walls. I've been out in enough big seas that I decided if I ever took one over the transom, I'd want to get that water off the deck ASAP, so the more flow area the better!

[avian22]

Bush,

Thanks for the info. on the wires. Now I know what to check for. I don't think there is any black or green. So you just helped me prevent an unnecessary project.

Will def. go with the brass tubes. Got to put some tools together and get my head right about how I'll go about fixing. I like the idea of making the hole a little bigger so that I can unite the materials. I am still a "padawan" at best and all of these projects are firsts for me. But I learn fast. So we'll see.

Thanks!

[McGillicuddy]

At least a dozen ways to re-skin a scupper. right now water is probably seeping into the bilge and rotting the putty wrapped wood blocks that support the floor and tube configuration.
Here's a link to my recent replacement effort. 4" Moeller or Sea Dog brass drain tubes, $3-4 ea., Moeller Drain tube flaring tool, $35; small tube of of 3M 4200, $6; about $5 of 2:1 epoxy and filler flour and a bit of masking tape and paper. Dry feet at the end of the day, priceless. Any questions feel free to ask. Bushwacker over-drilled his and created a thicker epoxy barrier between the wood and the brass. Thus, if his brass tubes corrode, the wood block will still be sealed keeping water out of the bilge. Do some searches as he suggested. Good luck. It's not that big of a deal...

http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...pper%20Repair/

[fishhuntNC]

I not so smart so maybe someone can explain but are you saying that the outside of the scupper has been glassed in and now your cockpit drains in the bilge?As far as cockpit scuppers drains or whatever go why not just use plastic thruhulls? They aint gonna corrode and there cheaper.Cut the old ones off if you cant break them loose.Just cut the nut in 3 or 4 places be careful and knock the piss out of it with a hammer.Might not be right but I did it to the fish box on mine.