#1
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1980 23' restoration
Hello all,
Long time lerker /admirer here. Picked this beauty a few months back and have slowly been diving into her. Some of you may recall she was for sale on her last year. Picked her up from Captain Larry who was happy to see she is getting a third chance at life. First concern, Termites! Yup, I'm that guy that brought a termite infested project home and got the stink eye from the Mrs. Thankfully, they are wet wood termites and I am due for a house treatment around the time she hits the water. First order of business, Termite removal. They were everywhere. I knew the transom was shot. The flexing in the bracket and motor gave that away. I have to admit, the 2 hr drive home from Miami to Jupiter was a nail biter. What I didn't realize is that they formed mud tubes and nests everywhere else, ie. cap core, stringers, under tank, and under liner walls. Oh well I like a challenge. Now for the plan. Exterminate with extreme prejudice and restore with all composite. Plan is to use coosa transom core, replace stringers with a grid system for indeck storage and raise deck height 2". Also removing liner and coring the sides with 1/2" divinycell. This leads me to the up to date progress. I have the old core removed, what was left anyways. Of course the most inner section was still solid, but no chances leaving any wood in there. I know I'm in trouble at home when I spend more time with the grinder then with the Mrs. Stink eye #2! Gotta keep the balance board even. My first question is: Do I need to grind away all of the chop strand shown down to the pink glass? Secondly, i dished out the inside of several holes as there were not filled correctly and wanted to fill them rock solid. What should I fill them with prior to setting core. My plan is to use all epoxy. I know its more expensive and have been going back and forth between all three media. No gelcote in her future either. Again, thanks for letting me become a member of your community and adorning me with your wealth of knowledge and experience. Tom |
#2
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Looks like u have grinder experience, you will need it lol. Nice to already have a full transom to work off of should knock some time off build. Looks like a good boat for a rebuild. Keep pics coming.
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#3
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If you're referring to the lighter color loose fibers, I ground mine down to solid glass. Didn't want to worry about air pockets and a weak bond. Good luck.
__________________
1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#4
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Thats exactly what I was referring to. Looks like a bit more grinding to do. Also want to fill in side vents prior to tabbing core in. Thanks for the input.
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#5
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You don't need to raise the deck on a 23'
__________________
1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#6
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Doesn't hurt while you're there anyway.
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#7
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Except when fighting a fish at the transom or back quarters and you knees are rubbed raw
P.S. Just my experience from owning a 23' for over 30 years
__________________
1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#8
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IGot to agree, the 23's are much safer with factory deck heights. Nice when the gunnels hit above the knees on the front thighs too.
__________________
Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
#9
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Thanks for the input on deck height. I'll give it some serious thought before I start that part. I just thought it needed to be raised so it dosent intersect below the Chines at the bow.
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#10
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Been slow and steady. My honey do list keeps growing. Finally got the outside skin closed in. Gotta add 2 more full layers on the in inside, then bed coosa transom core.
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